A Day on the Road:
A sunny day is an excuse to hit the road and head for the beach.
The Fleurieu Peninsula’s south coast is beautiful on any day, especially when driving the 1976 Mercedes Benz 450SLC. The scenery is stunning, no matter which route you take, and the final destination of Goolwa is little more than an hour from Adelaide’s CBD. It is a place where the Murray Mouth and Southern Ocean meet and where the world moves at a relaxed seaside pace.
The spectacular rural countryside is dotted with maritime history and lovely little towns. It is also home to some of the best food and wine offerings in the state. Many of them still feel like a hidden secret so pack your swimming gear and a sense of adventure and prepare to be charmed.
First stop is Currency Creek. Here, you’ll find Home of Plenty, a new cellar door home to an independent wine brand of the same name. The utterly charming space was the vision of Ben Shaw, who turned an old shearing shed into a place to imbibe his Shiraz, Pinot Gris, Sangiovese, and a refreshing spritz offering. The fun, high-energy indoor-outdoor space reflects the wine labels and the large-scale artwork and lightboxes (all designed by Ben). Grab an Italo-inspired snack and put your feet up before hitting the road again.
Still hungry? Hopefully, because Kuti Shack awaits. This coastal eatery can be found nestled between Goolwa Surf Lifesaving Club the sand dunes at Goolwa Beach and is an ode to the tasty, shelled morsels otherwise known as pipis or ‘Kuti’ in the local Ngarrindjeri language. This is top notch seafood in a cute-as-a-button, renovated shack setting. The pipis are harvested by Ngarrindjeri-owned Kuti Co and processed by Goolwa PipiCo which backs on to the restaurant. Small, local wine producers are championed, and they also do a mean Bloody Mary.
Nearby, Goolwa boasts The Fleurieu Distillery and Steam Exchange Brewery, an award-winning craft whisky distillery run by Gareth and Angela Andrews. Their wharf-side distillery and tasting room is part of the Goolwa Wharf Precinct and the beautiful heritage listed 1870s building was the original Goolwa Railway Goods shed. Nearby, the Fleurieu Coast extends from the Coorong’s sandhills to the windswept rugged Cape cliff tops, and moody, rugged Southern Ocean. It is gobsmacking stuff.
By now, it’s time for a caffeine hit and there’s no better place than Port Elliot (though make sure you stop to take in Middleton’s scenic coastline and surfing beaches on the way). When you reach Port Elliot, head straight for Factory 9, a collection of warehouse spaces filled with creative cats pouring coffee at De Groot Coffee Co, painting canvases at a handful of art galleries, and pouring wine at The Joinery Wine Room where former Young Gun of Wine winner Charlotte Hardy makes stunning Charlotte Dalton Wines and her hubby Ben Cooke crafts his range of Cooke Brothers Wines. The welcome is warm and as tasting space go, it doesn’t get more creative. This used to be artist David Bromley’s studio (keep your eyes peeled for the remnant licks of paint).
When in Port Elliot, it’s also essential to hit The Strand which is peppered with cool antique and vintage stores. If you’re lucky, you might even see The Cockle Train chug past. Nearby Horseshoe Bay is also a pretty spot to feel the sand between your toes and take a few scenic happy snaps. A fitting end to a day well spent.